Automania

PW ADVICE

by Tom Hagin

It's summertime again and most sun worshippers are getting geared up for their favorite aquatic activity. For many, it means pulling their PW (personal watercraft) out of the garage and firing the thing up for the first time in months.

But a few of those lucky enough to own one of these nimble aquatic motorcycles, may be unlucky enough to have their vehicles break down on the first trip out. Owners could spend their annual trip to the lake sitting on the beach next to an immobilized PW. Not a fun idea.

So it's time to do some preliminary work to the craft well in advance of the scheduled ski day. Here are some tips that could help avoid embarrassment or headaches.

BATTERY: Unfortunately, most personal watercraft use a magneto-type ignition system that works well to run the boat, but doesn't work well in charging the battery. If the battery is left in the craft over the winter, chances are it'll be as flat as last night's champagne. If the battery isn't sulfated, (it becomes obvious when it won't hold a charge) an inexpensive trickle charger should to revive it. If not, a new battery will run around $70.

FUEL SYSTEM: This can create major headaches for PW owners. The engines run on a mixture of oil and gasoline and the oil is used to lubricate the crankshaft and other moving parts. Some PW's require the owner to premix the fuel and oil in a can before they fill the tank while others are equipped with an oil injection unit that does the mixing while the engine is running. In the case of a premix, leaving the mixture in the tank for two months or more without running the craft can cause the fuel to go bad and gum up the carburetor. Sometimes the cure is an easy cleanup job with a spray cleaner, but in others the "soft" parts in the carb are ruined. Either way, the fuel should be replaced to avoid the hassle. The same holds true for injected units too, although without the oil additive, the gas doesn't go bad as quickly.

STEERING CABLES: Sometimes the initial test run is cut short by steering cable failure. The cables that are used to steer the craft are completely enclosed in a plastic cover but they need to be lubricated occasionally to keep them operating smoothly. The lube is available from a local watercraft or motorcycle dealer who sells a tool to spray the lube inside - sometimes a difficult task. The system should turn smooth in both directions and the cable should slide back and forth easily.

HULL: Taking for granted that the craft is seaworthy could prove to be a tragic mistake. Most watercraft use foam as a hull-filler to keep the boat afloat if the engine compartment fills with water. Little holes in the bottom, if left unrepaired, will allow water to enter the structure of the craft, saturating the foam and possibly ruining the hull. The small abrasions can be filled with a marine-grade epoxy and sanded down smooth. It's a fairly simple job for an auto body shop.

COOLING SYSTEM: These boats are cooled by water that is sucked in from underneath. It also sucks up sand, seaweed, fish and anything else small enough to fit inside. The tube that feeds the water to the engine is small, and subject to plugging. The engine should be run in the driveway to make sure the system is clear and the manufacturers instructions on hooking up the garden hose should be followed to make sure that water is "spitting" out the little hole on the side of the craft. If the craft doesn't have one, a close watch should be kept on the engine and if it looks like it's getting too hot, the intake tubes should be blown out with compressed air or a gently applied wire probe.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE: Nuts and bolts tend to loosen from vibration on PW's. Check the hose clamp connections and all nuts and bolts should be checked.

The second season of PW ownership is the toughest. The "bloom" is off the newness and it's easy to slip up on the fundamentals. The best rule is to treat the PW like it is brand new each time it's taken out.